Like Chinn, Bethann Hardison, Pat Cleveland, Norma Jean Darden, and Billie Blair were among those who went on to major careers. She was one of 10 Black models on the American roster of more than 30 who commanded the stage brilliantly, moving with a joie de vivre that captivated the audience. Also, recent collections have emphasized clothes rooted in the core traditions of American chic-practical, relaxed, polished without stuffiness-clothes such as these worn by the glorious Alva Chinn. Walter ChinĪnniversaries cause us to look back and reassess, and 50 is a big one. Stephen Burrows vintage top and skirt ($1,800) Lorraine West Jewelry earrings ($21,230) David Webb ring ($28,000). It resonates now as a one-night Camelot-en-France, a shining moment of ascendency for American fashion that continues to fascinate, inspiring two documentaries, a pivotal episode of Netflix’s Halston, and Tom Ford’s installation at the Metropolitan Museum’s “In America: An Anthology of Fashion.” In addition, HBO optioned critic Robin Givhan’s seminal book on the event. And indeed, it raised more than a few francs for the cause.īut the Grand Divertissement à Versailles (its official name) is remembered not for its philanthropic premise but as a watershed moment when American gusto trumped French grandeur. Ostensibly, the soiree was to benefit the venue’s restoration–even the grandest of digs get dusty-musty after centuries. It occurred 50 years ago this November, when five masters of elegant French haute couture and five purveyors of easy American ready-to-wear staged an event in one of the world’s most extraordinary enclaves. The term refers not to the young Marie Antoinette in a fit of pique over palace protocol, but to a fashion show for the ages.

The Helm, Volume 1 by Jim Hardison